Italian with Jake. Hi Simon Hi Simon, Simon's books and product collaborations are available to buy through the Permanent Style shop. Do you know if they will have a web shop? Anglo-Italian’s trousers are high-waisted, hitting right at the navel; this is my preferred front rise, so it required no alteration to the pattern. More a case of subverting the rules - and therefore the expectations - rather than seeking to follow them. I know these 2 guys at Armoury in HongKong, didn’t know they start their own business together until now. If you haven’t checked out Anglo-Italian yet, I encourage you to do so. Jake and I discussed his life growing up in Wimbledon, the world of classic menswear and how in his eyes, hardcore music and tailoring have a lot more in common than what you think. Today I’m here to teach you guys, all the ways to say “Hello” in my language which is Italian. The leading British blog on tailoring, luxury and men's style. And from that perspective too, one can be confident! I’ve never owned a jacket with generous drape or extended shoulders before and it’s a fairly sharp change of silhouette that was jarring at first. I will likely buy again from Anglo-Italian as I like the brand's aesthetic and their ties, sweaters, and shirts are easily some of the best in the industry. Keeping with the business theme, I picked a delightfully dry-handed and subtlety textured charcoal fabric and chose flapped pockets to keep the suit formal. If the jackets are a little roped in the shoulder will that make them a little more formal and less suitable for wearing with more casual trousers/jeans than the shirt sleeve/Neapolitan-style? My guest this week is the co-founder of London shop Anglo-Italian, Jake Grantham. Any idea if so who makes for them as it would give an idea of make and style since their is such variation between the neopolitan makers? Places like Stile Latino and Lardini make different shapes, but they are also selling as brands – which is why those shapes are defined for their retail, but not necessarily for different customers. Tennis Sweater. I'm sure my feelings towards the suit will evolve over time as I wear it and that will be the deciding factor in my decision whether not to commission a second suit in the future. (Anglo-Italian: Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis open in London), has been published on Permanent Style For more of Anglo Italian, you can follow Jake, Alex, and the store on Instagram. While a lovely establishment, the basement library lacks the natural lighting necessary to facilitate fittings. Despite the short notice I was able to make the trip for the second fitting, which was painless and very quick. Curious to know because Formosa seems the only other Naples house that offers hand-padded lapels in RTW and the pricing seems equivalent. However, I’m not sure I'd commission another suit because while I'm quite pleased with the suit, there are just enough issues at the margins to keep me from enjoying it unthinkingly and make me question if it was worth the added cost in time and money. Where else would you advise for MTM ? Alex took the time to chit chat with me, let me try a bunch of stuff one, etc. Thank you for your sharing. Last weekend, of course, Franco Smith’s men went down 50-17in Ireland. Anglo-Italian Made-to-Measure Double-Breasted Suit Review, Updated, Before I get into the review of the suit, I want to explain why I chose Anglo-Italian for this commission. London, March 2020.” The way in which Anglo-Italian slims the waist of a jacket also produces more pronounced hips than I am used to, an effect you can just barely see in the head-on photo. Thank you very much! Last night was the (soft) opening of Anglo-Italian, the new shop in London being run by ex-Armoury buddies Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis. Advice? It will be considered that directors can develop or give the data on proportional accuracy. Simon, how does the handwork on the suits and overall quality compare with Sartoria Formosa? A very interesting job indeed! Anglo-Italian offers two shoulder choices, spalla camicia with or without roping. I have always wondered (and doubted) about the real advantages of a hand made chest padding, same question for hand made lapel padding. The shop will officially open to the public in June. I inquired about a flapped ticket pocket, but Alex advised against because it is too flashy for the Anglo-Italian brand. Would be interested to read…. I also picked up a wonderful Shetland sweater, which some of you may have seen. I’ll be interested to see how the tailoring compares to p Johnson given the similar pricing, It will be pretty favourable in terms of quality of work. See the complete profile on LinkedIn and discover Jake’s connections and jobs at similar companies. One other process improvement I would recommend is a change of location. The problem is this segment of the market is quite limited. It’s hard to be comprehensive at this stage given I haven’t fully reviewed either. Cut in an aviator style similar to the Valstar, its distinctive feature is a high collar of ribbing that can be flipped up or down - the latter being warmed and having a lot more swagger. I received the final just after Christmas. Making clothing, especially tailored-made, is needed to get the number of shoulders, chest and bottom of ratio for pattern of composition, so that shape of jacket would be made differently. Click on the image for more wonderful photos of their London store. In the future, I would change about the leg opening of trousers, which at seven inches is on the smaller end. Several people suggested alterations that could be made, but I was wary of turning it over to my local tailor who I feared might ruin some of the more intricate details of the suit. That´s okay -:) Either MTM or Bespoke is not an option unless I travel. 209 notes. Also, knowing where they are made would not have any affect on the make or style. fair points. (My hotel is in the neighborhood of marylebone high street! agosto 16, 2018. Last night was the (soft) opening of Anglo-Italian, the new shop in London being run by ex-Armoury buddies Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis. But this was a first chance for friends and family to get a look at what Jake and Alex have put together. I bought a pair of their C&J loafers last year but they didn’t work out for my wide feet, and their balmacaan raincoat earlier this year which I love, but I’d yet to try their tailoring. Thanks Knud, yes someone pointed out above that it had changed, Some tailors like it, because it means they can take on another work if they want to. The jackets and suits are all made in Naples, with soft shoulders and a tiny hint of rope in the shoulder. And that can be more casual in the style (norwegians, loafer) or in colour and material (brown, suede). Alex thinks this will dissipate with a few wears, but I’m unsure. And yes, I will on the date. I’ve come to like it more, but I don’t think I’ve fully made up my mind about it yet. Our Crockett and Jones for Anglo-Italian collection has been restocked and we have also introduced a new style, Studridge in Espresso Calf. Throughout, the aesthetic is relaxed and muted. One of the biggest such sites in the world, it receives up to 500,000 page views a month. Anglo-It I am looking forward to receiving them. But shirts made in Germany? He met Alex Pirounis there, and they both eventually left to start their shop in London called Anglo Italian.If you want to hear more about that, I def encourage you to listen to Jake's first pod we did together. When my wife and I were in London in 2017, we had only one day to do anything, so we each picked 2 things to do. Alex visits both cities every few months. On the trousers, I had my tailor shorten the hem and widen the leg below the knee to a 7.5" opening. There are also a couple aspects of the Anglo-Italian house style that taken some getting used to. A flying visit to Anglo-Italian I recently had a chance to visit Anglo-Italian on Weymouth St., the new venture of Alex Pirounis and Jake Grantham, both formerly of The Armoury . Yes that makes sense. And some houses like it, because it gives them flexibility. On a par with RL purple label, or Stoffa – or a bit below that? Thanks, though I am a little perplexed as to why there is a review of a shop which hasn’t even opened yet. Compared to a Cavendish (last 325), it wears a bit more snug in the forefoot. Yes, and it’s certainly not boxy (more Italian) and not too tight or short. Jake Grantham & Alex Pirounis on behalf of all at Anglo-Italian Seasonal Sport Jackets Tailoring has always been at the centre of our offering, and we are pleased to present our Sport Jackets for this Spring & Summer season. Many thanks for the article. I’ll hopefully be doing so soon however. View Jake Grantham’s profile on LinkedIn, the world’s largest professional community. Just had a browse around their web store. Formed in 2017 by Alex Pirounis and Jake Grantham. Ah I see. 2020-jun-11 - 1,053 Likes, 14 Comments - Anglo-Italian (@angloitaliancompany) on Instagram: “Jake wears our Light Wash Denim Button Down with our Sports Jacket in Grey Glencheck Cotton, Wool &…” What I mean is that the factories have characteristic ratio of pattern. I can elaborate more elsewhere but I’m not sure there is a post that goes into more detail. All have a full, floating canvas. On my next pair, I will decrease the inseam slightly and widen the leg opening to seven and a half inches, which should correct this issue. Click on an image to enlarge. The small leg opening created a greater than ideal break, interfering with the clean drape of the front crease. Anglo-Italian’s Fall/Winter 2020 Lookbook October 27, 2020 Only three years old, Anglo-Italian is evolving their clothing in slow, steady increments that feel imperceptible in the moment, yet which have added up to create a fuller and fuller picture of the vision of founders Jake … These winter friendly soles help to protect the shoe against damp conditions, but remain Goodyear welted and made to Crockett and Jones' exacting specifications. Bombers were 850 I think, will double check the MTM price. The website with all details should be launching next week. But would a shoe not be more suitable in the coming months with rain or snow? But hwo actually produce gacca and pantalone for them in Naples? Those of you familiar with my original review know I wasn't completely happy with the fit of my Anglo-Italian made-to-measure double-breasted suit. The two themes of tailoring and customisation extend into the casual clothing. Wish you all the best and success , a new high end men’s wear store in Europe ! Thanks. Nameberry is a registered trademark of Nameberry, LLC. Before images on the left, after on the right. Does favourably mean better? Various events have slowed things down, and even last night the mirrors were going up a few minutes before everyone arrived. I learned of one of their NYC trunks shows from Instagram and I started a conversation via DM that quickly transitioned to email. I’m considering going for either Trunks MTM option or Anglo Italian. I’m considering a MTM jacket and deciding between Anglo-Italian and drakes. I currently own two (different styles, different vendors). I sincerely apologise if you feel awkward, Thank you very much for your help. I don’t think it’s particularly relevant, to be honest. I also went for a single rear pocket because the simplicity appeals to me and it is the more formal choice. The logos on the suit, hanger, and garment bag are tasteful and delightfully retro. An excellent choice of location making Marylebone High Street and go to location for beautiful menswear. David lives and works in Washington, D.C. Like many men, his passion for classic menswear began at work, but it was soon obvious few others viewed tailoring as anything other than an unfortunate necessity. Now re-stocked along with our University Stripe and Green Stripe.” Simon, is your full review of your P Johnson jacket and trousers coming? I chose Drake's and Anglo Italian to visit. And no, having a floating canvas is different. Jake Grantham My guest this week is the co-founder of London shop Anglo-Italian, Jake Grantham. May 16, 2020 - 1,658 Likes, 5 Comments - Anglo-Italian (@angloitaliancompany) on Instagram: “Jake. Just an Italian kid who likes langauges. In that particular case, though, I’d suggest style would be as important as anything, given they are pretty different. Anglo-Italian classic jeans fit perfectly straight from the box. Authentic Tailoring From No Man Walks Alone x Sartoria Carrara – Anglo-Italian’s Pitch Perfect Blend of English Sobriety and Italian Panache – SuitSupply’s Excellent Hidden in Plain Site Jort Line We are proud to present Anglo-Italian Tessuti, our own collection of cloth, woven in England & Italy. hi Simon, are the jackets made in Napoli from a factory or or a Neapolitan sartoria? I wish Jake and Alex all the best, and look forward to seeing the shop develop. The name Anglo Italian obviously reflects the shop’s aesthetics – a somewhat modernized version of a mid-century style, when the Italians used to look to the English for their cues – but it’s also reflective of Jake and Alex’s personal backgrounds. The length of the process, over six months, wasn’t necessarily a problem, but there was either some overpromising on delivery times or lack of communication that my suit was going to run over the usual production timeline. Jake and I discussed his life growing up in Wimbledon, the world of classic menswear and how in his eyes, hardcore music and tailoring have a lot more in common than what you think. As you likely know, most of my wardrobe is composed of pieces from mid-tier brands like Suitsupply and increasingly lately, Spier & MacKay. I’ve recently bought a pair of AI shaved trousers (khaki)- but I’m struggling to find the right pair of shoes to wear with them?? A minor cosmetic detail was wrong as well, I'd asked for only one rear pocket, on the left side, and the trousers came with one right rear pocket. I will visit London from 4th to 10th June, could you let know when will they officially open & the actual address, thanks! did you manage to try on any of the tailored jackets? Not really, sorry, as I have yet to try and review either. You can also subscribe without commenting. ANGLO-ITALIAN TESSUTI. Even bespoke commissions are better the second time around, but the fit on this suit is excellent. There is also some rippling across the mid-back which might necessitate lowering the collar. Adding to the comment regarding the suede bombers- Simon, when are you planning to write about your Stoffa suede jacket? There is lots of handwork: hand-fixed collar, hand-sewn buttonholes, hand-attached lining, and most usefully of all, a hand-padded lapel (though not chest). Hand-padded lapels have arguably less benefit. This melodious and feminine Latin variation of the Lily family is a favorite in the Hispanic community and would work beautifully with an Anglo surname as well. Anglo-Italian’s style represents the best of both the English and Italian tailoring traditions, as their name suggests, and you need only quickly browse their website or Instagram or glimpse one of the founders Alex and Jake, to immediately understand Anglo-Italian has captured the mood of … Unusually, Jake and Alex were able to experiment with their own washes - and that is the emphasis here, with just one fit but three current washes, and more to come. Hi Simon, do you think a hand-padded chest can benefit a RTW garment as well? Nov 7, 2019 - 24.1k Followers, 5 Following, 425 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from Anglo-Italian (@angloitaliancompany) I have a fairly forward shoulder posture, but the jacket has nicely compensated for that. Anglo-Italian’s style represents the best of both the English and Italian tailoring traditions, as their name suggests, and you need only quickly browse their website or Instagram or glimpse one of the founders Alex and Jake, to immediately understand Anglo-Italian has captured the mood of this moment in menswear. ... Wassup y’all! Alan Paine merino roll necks are rather nice. These are really good news! House cloths are normally the lowest price, the same as mine. Certainly below RLPL and I probably Stiffs, but these are also heavier suedes so slightly more rugged in any case. Hi Simon thanks for sharing – I look forward to checking it out! Yes, hand padding will make a difference, whether RTW or bespoke. The hanger is exceptionally sturdy and gray stain is beautiful and quite unique. This may just be the reaction everyone has when they move from mid-range RTW to luxury MTM tailoring and it's true that a second suit would likely fix some or all of these issues. A hand-padded chest is the most fundamental craft element of a bespoke suit. Shot in Fulham, London. If I work up the courage to take it back to the tailor, the sleeves could be picked up in the back just a bit and there's a little excess fabric in the back still. They have a 3-roll-2 button configuration, patch pockets, and a generous lapel. The shop is small but well-balanced, and the same is true of their first collection—although many of … Again, very different to a bespoke maker. Thanks! It is certainly true that Stile ratino, for instance, and Lardini are quite different shape. Jake and Alex's new shop in Marylebone in London is an absolute gem of a little shop. Previous Post. Plus brands move, as I know Anglo Italian have. At first, I thought it was an alterations mistake, but it’s clearly present in the photography on their website and is an element of the house style. The name Anglo Italian obviously reflects the shop’s aesthetics – a somewhat modernized version of a mid-century style, when the Italians used to look to the English for their cues – but it’s also reflective of Jake and Alex’s personal backgrounds. Anglo-Italian’s style represents the best of both the English and Italian tailoring traditions, as their name suggests, and you need only quickly browse their website or Instagram or glimpse one of the founders Alex and Jake, to immediately understand Anglo-Italian … I would have expected a more comprehensive review once the shop had been fully completed. Permanent Style is the UK authority on classic and luxury menswear. However, as with many traveling tailors, communication could probably be improved somewhat. Must be a first. I've known Jake Grantham for nearly ten years, and it has been incredible to watch his rise.. As you can see in one of the pictures above from the second fitting, the sleeves were too long (hitting mid-hand), the waist of the jacket needed a good amount of slimming, and the inseam was too long. Follow Jake on Instagram. Do You know how their Chinos are compared to Chinos from drakes and incotex?. Also, I’ve always thought that a floating canvas can only be achieved by hand padding the chest piece. The jackets are in faded checks and the trousers come in soft browns and greens; the ties and scarves too are muted and versatile. The exclusive loafer models are now offered with a rubber City Sole. No real sartoria makes ready-made garments – it’s a factory but a small one with a small and higher end operation within it. This aesthetic carries across into the jeans - perhaps the most interesting category of the lot. Nice to see they stock Failsworth hats. Personally I’d suggest trying a brown suede loafer. © 2021 Nameberry.com. I haven’t tried either so can’t comment on fit. Before opening Anglo-Italian last summer, Pirounis ran the Amoury’s outpost in Hong Kong, and his business partner, Jake Grantham, is a Savile Row veteran—so they know their clothes and customers. Anglo-Italian’s style represents the best of both the English and Italian tailoring traditions, as their name suggests, and you need only quickly browse their website or Instagram or glimpse one of the founders Alex and Jake, to immediately understand Anglo-Italian … In regards to the prices of jackets and suits: How would you decide between this kind of high quality neapolitan tailoring and more affordable bespoke such a Graham Browne? Could you explain the difference? The fit is not perfect though, there is slightly too much room in the shoulders, and I think the left shoulder is slightly too wide, affecting the drape of the sleeve. January 15, 2020. Both worked for the Armoury —the contemporary high water mark of men’s stores—making a name for themselves in the industry (and on many a Tumblr) before forging their new vision together in London in 2016. We present seasonal collections and produce made-to-measure commissions year-round. Simon, any plans to try the AI mtm offering? This refers to it being sewn (by hand or machine) to the front of the suit rather than glued (fused). I have a Formosa RTW sport coat (where the chest is padded by hand I believe) and the swell at the chest is just lovely. The stand-out piece here is a suede bomber jacket, available ready-to-wear in tan and dark brown. In retrospect, he was clearly right. It is a beautiful worsted MTM trouser, with a special colour ( kind of green, cream…hard to define). With so much comment on a large brands dominating the high street I’m delighted that there are people like Jake prepared to take on the challenge. See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon. Anglo-Italian is a young company, but its founders Jake Grantham and Alex Pirounis both have a long history in menswear. John. thanks for the info Simon. A more regular Neapolitan fit. Not sure if the same thing can be achieved by just adding drape. A hand-padded chest makes the jacket three-dimensional. It can be misleading with any brand – as the customer assumes being made in a particular factory means a particular quality of make, when it often doesn’t. If you have very wide feet, that might be an issue. Which one in your opioin is the best for the trousers?? Jake Grantham of Anglo-Italian at Pitti Uomo 97 January 2020. He hopes this blog can provide others with just a small bit of inspiration on their own sartorial journeys. House cloths are normally the lowest price, the same as mine. Luckily, I was able to get an appointment for the trunk show that weekend (June 1st). Does one have more styling choices or better fit for MTM? Hopefully, the Anglo-Italian products will be befitting of Jake and Alex’s youth. 2020-jun-11 - 1,053 Likes, 14 Comments - Anglo-Italian (@angloitaliancompany) on Instagram: “Jake wears our Light Wash Denim Button Down with our Sports Jacket in Grey Glencheck Cotton, Wool &…” I really wish this guys all the best. There is also a navy-nylon field jacket, to wear over the tailoring, a range of odd trousers, to wear with the bombers or the tailoring, and a selection of crewneck knitwear. Comparing Anglo-Italian to Neapolitan bespoke would bring up the benefits of bespoke more clearly. I would very much be interested in a review of Anglo-Italian MTM! Anglo-Italian’s style represents the best of both the English and Italian tailoring traditions, as their name suggests, and you need only quickly browse their website or Instagram or glimpse one of the founders Alex and Jake, to immediately understand Anglo-Italian has captured the mood of this moment in menswear. Jake and Alex have very good taste. Originally from London, Jake moved to HK to join the first team at The Armoury. How do You like A-I RTW trousers ? And ninety per cent of the product for this season is there, so pretty complete already. Like many men, his passion for classic menswear began at work, but it was soon obvious few others viewed tailoring as anything other than an unfortunate necessity. It’s been a long time coming. While the former may have far more hand operations and a better construction, wouldn’t the latter, being bespoke, offer a better fit? As much as I love raw denim, and would pretty much always prefer it, you can never get the same colours as the lightest fades here. I wanted a three-season suit, so we made the jacket and trousers unlined. So yes, you want a more casual shoe probably. Best regards, Absolutely and totally I will buy their finest products. On the trousers, I chose double reverse pleats and two inch cuffs to balance out the visual interest of the double-breasted jacket and a button fly because I think they lay flatter. The price is good given the amount of handwork: around £990 for a jacket, £1300 for a suit, with a small uplift for made to measure. What would you say is better or worse? I´will have to wait until next time I coming to London to see them. How would you compare their suits versus Trunk Clothiers? Hiya, how was your day? Various events have slowed things down, and even last night the mirrors were going up a few minutes before everyone arrived. The rippling in the sleeve head is subtle and charming. I picked a double-breasted suit, because it’s Anglo-Italian’s more distinct offering, whereas their single-breasted suits are similar to many other Neapolitan designs. Thanks for reading this long-winded review. Best to wait for images of the jackets themselves to get an idea of style, or of course visit them. However, in terms of pattern or cut, it is quite different idea from your review. As you mentioned it in this article, could you elaborate (or refer to a previous article dealing with it). I have ordered, and received, the Bradbourne loafer in dark brown sided with city sole, in the last 72. I hope you always write professional and crucial analyses. Received my first Anglo Italian RTW jacket just before Xmas and I’m pretty impressed. I don’t want to give you the impression the choice was merely made for the price though. The shop is still work in progress. 21-okt-2015 - 347 Likes, 18 Comments - Jake Grantham (@cadeandco) on Instagram: “Taking out the Panico for a spin” Notify me of followup comments via e-mail. Made in Kyoto, they have a relatively high rise and a subtle taper. It is the most expensive tailoring purchase I’ve made and one I can’t and won’t make often or even yearly, but as I slowly work to upgrade my wardrobe it was the right choice at the time. Apart from the cutting/fitting side, you can chuck out all other aspects of a bespoke jacket and just keep this one. But Anglo-Italian already has a nice vibe: a 1930s Italian feel that can be seen in the signage, the decoration and (last night) the catering of the wonderful Bar Termini. Leg below the knee to a Cavendish ( last 325 ), it wears a bit below that canvas different... Before images on the smaller end the AI MTM offering a solid collection, but stand out among iGents... 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